Jenny Slingerland
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jennyslingerland
Participant@audra I forgot to tell you that yes, I have my presentation up on my computer for them to see any item I don’t have a sample for. 🙂
jennyslingerland
Participant@audra Great question! I try to have as many samples as I can, wood, paint, hardware, lighting and plumbing finishes, carpet samples, etc.. Some showrooms will allow you to borrow a faucet or two for a presentation. This won’t be for every faucet in the whole house obviously but maybe pick your two favorites. Maybe have one in one finish and the other style in a different finish you’re using. Then they can see and touch it and know they quality is good and then they can trust the other plumbing selections you’ve made. This goes back to developing a great relationship with your reps. The more they know you the more likely they are to help you borrow samples if that is not something they typically do. Also, I have borrowed tile boards from a tile showroom as some of they don’t always have samples of everything in stock. If you know what cabinet company the builder is using, you can call ahead and explain you have a presentation and would like to have a few cabinet samples to show the homeowner, they will likely let you borrow a few. The cabinet doors they have on display might not be the exact style and color you want, but if there is a door sample you love, explain that you love the style of the door but that you would change the stain color or show them the paint color you would paint it. If you are doing custom cabinetry, the exact style and color selections will be made finalized at your cabinetry meeting with the cabinet company you are working with. Yes, you showed the homeowner inspiration images or sample doors as inspiration, but you will sit down with the cabinet maker to finalize everything. Sometimes the homeowner wants to go to that meeting, which to me is totally fine.
jennyslingerland
Participant@iram Yes, you have access to the videos for 90 days. I think there was an option to pay more to have the videos for longer. If you aren’t sure if you paid for the extended period of time reach out to hello@luannnigara.com and they can let you know. We do move quickly, so don’t worry if you’re a little behind!
jennyslingerland
Participant@kathleen I use HouzzPro for creating proposals and invoices if I am purchasing lighting or wallpaper for the client because those a typically the only things I order for a build project. I then use it for all my furnishings as well.
jennyslingerland
Participant@sherry I am so sorry for the confusion! They were supposed to remove the workbook from the class downloads as it is a few years old and a lot of my processes have evolved and changed. I would focus on the slides for the most accurate information. 🙂
jennyslingerland
ParticipantHi @jenna
1. I make the changes. I let them know in an email that I have updated the plans and specify what exactly plans changed and the page #. You can always put a cloud around the item in cad that you’re changing so that it draws their eye to that area.
If there are changes that go beyond your original deliverables, you should have in your contract that that will be billed hourly so that you can pay your draftsman/woman to make the changes.2. Yes, she uses my finish schedule.
3. I think we touched on this in class, each specific category of selections should be on it’s own tab. It’s easier for the trades and for you to keep track of the selections you’ve made and still need to make. Unless you are only doing one room, like a kitchen remodel, then you can put all the information on one finish schedule. It doesn’t matter that they are long, just keep all the categories separate in their own tabs. I have done a 17,000 sq/ft, 13,000 sq/ft, etc., and this is the preferred method for the builders and trades. The spreadsheets are in the class downloads for this week so you can see the tabs for clarification. *thumbs up emoji inserted here. 😉
jennyslingerland
Participant@natalie that is correct. All the same, just different formats 🙂
jennyslingerland
Participant@jen It’s hard to say. It depends on a lot of factors. Is there a lot of bathrooms, built-ins, cabinetry, fireplaces, panel molding, etc? The more cabinetry, showers, fireplaces, trim details, etc., the more hours you’ll need. It’s similar to designers who give estimates to their clients, one person will estimate more than an other.
Currently I am working on 10,000sq/ft home and we’re at 170 hours in CAD. I had a 6,500 sq/ft remodel recently and we finished at 150hrs. There was a lot happening on that project with a bad architect and landscape designer so we were heavily involved.
Are you acting as the architect? A “full set” would include structural and mechanical engineering in addition to and RCP, floor plan, etc.. If you are providing edits to the floor plan, RCP and interior elevations based on an architects plans, those documents are provided in our design/spec books, so just make sure you don’t use the words “full set” to a client. Instead use “interior design drawings,” “interior specification drawings,” or something like that. Does that help?
jennyslingerland
Participant1. How do you handle changes to the spec book? Do you keep it all digital or print? If/ when changes occur I’m just always worried that everyone is going off the most recent plans.
A: We’ll cover this in the coming weeks, but short answer is DIGITAL it’s the only way I share our drawings and documents.
2. Do you specify sanded or epoxy grout? Or does the installer suggest what is best for each application?
A: Tile installer will select. If there’s a problem with your color selection and the type of grout they need to use, they will usually reach out and tell you what brand you need to reselect a grout from for that application. Hasn’t happened to me yet, but I’m sure one day it will.
3. Do you meet clients in showrooms such as plumbing and lighting and make selections together with a rep?
A: I never take clients to tile, lighting or plumbing showrooms, it’s like taking a kid to a candy shop, there are too many options and it’s overwhelming for them. I always make all the selections and present my selections during the presentation. If I take a client to a showroom it’s for two reasons: 1. they want to be involved in selecting the slabs 2. they want to go to the cabinet shop showroom, but that’s it. Also, if your client wants to be at all the showrooms and be involved in the selection process you need to charge hourly. It will take 3x longer with them involved.
4. How do you format the scope of work in your contract?
A: I hide the columns that show my hours and associated fees, only leaving my list of selections and then export it into a pdf and attach it to the contract as “Addendum A.”
5. In your Scope of Work list – do you also explain which items you will be responsible for Procurement, too? Or just the materials to get the house built?
A: If you’re procuring items (we talked about the general dangers of this in week 1 and I’ll probably mention it again next week) you can put in the “notes” column of the finish schedule “To be purchased by xyz design firm.” For wallpaper I put, “can be purchased through black ink interiors.” Builders usually always ask us to buy it because they don’t have and don’t want to waste time setting up accounts with Schumacher, Kravet, etc
6. Do you mind sharing your spreadsheet with hours per item? Or an example of?
A:I don’t share the spreadsheet with the class but the last pages of this week’s slides provide a list of the materials I have in my spreadsheet, so that will help you create yours. There may be things I’ve forgotten, so definitely add to it!
7. Is the template you use for scope and calculating something you share with us?
*answered in #68. Do you show the client the detail of # of hours and rates for each person on your team involved?
A: Nope, only the list of selections, a line item for the finish schedule and one for drawings (per room). Refer to the last few pages of this week’s slides, that is what the client sees.
If you’re doing hourly you can put an estimate range at the bottom of your scope of work that states “design fee estimate $60,000 – $75,000” or whatever yours adds up to. If you’re doing flat fee you would not include this.jennyslingerland
Participant@veronika I would draw all the hardware and then show the dimensions for the knobs and pulls one cabinet and one drawer. You don’t have to dimension everyone. If you show dimensions on a drawer and a cabinet, they will match those measurements on all of them. Make sure if there is other hardware, like an appliance pull, you provide those dims as well. Good luck on your elevations!
jennyslingerland
ParticipantQ: How can the designer ensure that the selections made align with the builder’s preferences?
A: We touched on this in class, but you may have asked before that. As long as you know the budget and any specific trade vendors/showrooms he prefers to work, with he builder doesn’t care about the selections you put in the home. Modern, Coastal, Traditional, he’ll put in whatever you specify.Q: How do you ensure that the electrical plan aligns with the builder’s needs?
A: I will start by reiterating what I said in class, if you do not know how to do a reflected ceiling plan, do not do one. Tell the architect that you want “three pendants over the island instead of two,” or “two sconces instead of an overhead in the powder bathroom.” Keep it as simple as you can until you become more experienced and comfortable with lighting. Like the question above, the builder does not care what lights you put in, so there’s nothing really that you are “aligning” with. There are codes for lights on exterior doors, on stair landings, etc. things that he will know he needs to follow, but those lights will have been put in by the architect, so unless you are redoing every recessed light in the whole home, not just a few rooms, you’ll be okay.Q: How often should a lighting expert be involved in creating a lighting plan?
A: We talked about lighting experts in class briefly, I personally don’t think they’re necessary unless the house is like an art gallery requiring specialty lighting throughout. Obviously they can be brought on to a project but remember your client would then be paying 1. the architect to do the lighting plan 2. You’ve been paid to review the lighting plan and now we’re bringing a 3rd person in to review the lighting plan. So that’s three people working on the same thing, most clients would say no, but like I said, if the house requires it, by all means have them hire one! But they should be paid directly by the homeowner, not you. If something goes sideways with them, they can come after you.Q: What should be included in the finished schedule regarding specialty LED lighting?
A: We talked about this in class. I don’t put anything LED related in my finish schedule, I may put in the finish schedule a line item and in the NOTES section say, “Use diffuser on all LED lighting,” but that’s about it. I let the A/V guys, electricians or cabinet company specify what they know will work best. I do indicate in my floor plans and elevations the locations I want the LED lighting, I just don’t know enough about the latest and greatest in the world of LED lighting to tell the experts what they should be using.How should the electrical plan be integrated with the architect’s drawings? See #2 answer above for more information. If in this case you are comfortable with editing the architects RCP, you can send him your cad file once you’ve made your edits and he can upload it into his plans.
**** I really want to make sure that everyone knows that 9 times out of 10 you will not need to edit the placement of the architect’s recessed lighting in the RCP. You may just need to let the architect know in an email to “switch from one overhead sconce to two sconces flanking the mirror in all bathrooms.” You could also say, “There isn’t a decorative lighting fixture in the laundry room, could you add one to the center of the room.” You’re done, you did your job, moving on to the next stage of the design. PLEASE DO NOT edit the plans unless you are 100% confident in what you are doing. I will also note here that if you are asking the architect to make edits, do it in ONE email. Gather all your redlines and list them in an email. Do not send an email to her/him every time you happen to think of something you want to change. 1. he/she will get overwhelmed and mad 2. things will get lost, they won’t get changed and then your plan view and elevations won’t match his. We will discuss elevations and drawings in week 4 so stay tuned for more info. ****
jennyslingerland
Participant@savannah Thank you for appreciating my humor. 😉
While I can’t provide specific pricing advise to you in the forum, I will say that you should have a contract with him that clearly states your hourly fee and your scope of work for the project.
Do not do a flat fee, do hourly until you know how long things will take you. We discussed in the first class about time tracking and keeping track of ALL hours spent on the project, even if you don’t bill for all your hours. This is the only way that you will truly know the time spent on a project. If you’re new and aren’t charging for every hour because you’re learning as you go, that’s okay, but track your time. You may want to go back and watch that part of last week’s class. I will reiterate, do not do a flat fee, you will not make any money by the time the project is over. Hope that helps!jennyslingerland
ParticipantGreat question! After the project is complete I print the finish schedule and the care and cleaning document we create for the materials in the home and the furnishings and give it to them with their house warming gift. This provides a way for them to be able to care for the things in the home and the finish schedule allows them to have a list all the selections, materials, paint colors, etc. that are in their home in case they need to get something replaced, paint touch-up, etc.
I don’t print a book for the builder, all files are via dropbox. We’ll talk more about that in Week 5. 🙂
jennyslingerland
Participant@veronika Thank you for your question. I am so sorry that I cannot provide you with a helpful answer though. I don’t have experience with this, but I may know of a designer who does. Let me see if she is open to me sharing her contact information with you. If so, I will send it to you directly via email. Thanks!
jennyslingerland
Participant@Natalie Thanks for the question! For material selections working of a PDF is fine. When we get to creating the elevations and tagging the elevations, you will want a .dwg (cad file) so that you can edit and tag the elevations. Some people use SketchUp, I’m not familiar with that program, but it may be an easier learning curve than cad if you are wanting to do them on your own. I hire out my cad so that I can spend my time on the designs and selections and let someone who is experienced and fast in cad do the elevations. I always account for their time when I charge a flat fee and I charge their fee + a mark up for their time if I’m charging hourly. For example the person that I work with for cad is $65/hr, I bill her out at $150. You can find people who are less, but I have worked with her for a couple years now and I’m happy to pay more for someone with the experience and speed that she brings to the table. Does that help?
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